Belize, if You Please

An immersive look at Prana Maya, a private island resort redefining relaxation near Placencia

By Katie McElveen

It’s 6 a.m., and as much as I want to go back to sleep, I realize that since I’m awake before sunrise — rare — it might be nice to watch the sun come up over the water. Stepping onto my terrace, I hear nothing but the Caribbean Sea, which laps the sand less than 20 feet from where I stand. Within seconds, a sharp red line appears along the horizon and the birds begin their morning squawks and calls. Before long, I’m fully immersed in a swirl of color and sound.

Such are mornings at Prana Maya, a private island resort near Placencia, Belize. Though the resort is small — there are seven multi-bedroom homes and 10 hotel-style suites — there’s no shortage of amenities, which include a private beach and lagoon, a stunning spa, cocktail cruises and an award-winning food and beverage team.

It was hard not to gawk when I entered the contemporary two-bedroom villa that would be my home for the next few days. Floor-to-ceiling windows looked onto a private pool and a large shaded deck; just beyond, across a golden beach framed by sea grapes, lay the Caribbean.

Inside, my second-story bedroom had its own large verandah as well as a king-sized bed and a bathroom outfitted with not just a deep soaking tub but indoor and outdoor showers as well. The downstairs bedroom was equally plush, but with direct access to the pool.

Had we been a party of more than two, the living area would have had plenty of space for our group to gather around dining tables or in the den. Villas have full kitchens; extras like laundry facilities, an ice machine, a powder room and bug spray were thoughtful and appreciated.

The space was beautiful, too, with original art, stunning light fixtures and lots of natural stone.

I did peek into the hotel-style suites, which have the same sleek-but-comfortable style, access to outdoor space and large sitting areas.

Though only open since December 2024, Prana Maya feels like a long-established resort, the type of welcoming oasis where guests return again and again. Beyond the obvious comfort of our wonderfully private villa, the whole resort is lovely, from the perfectly maintained grounds to the main building, where the lobby, restaurant, bar and main pool all merge into a single space that overlooks the beach. I loved the local touches, particularly the hand-carved doors crafted from huge slabs of mahogany, framed local artwork and a front desk crafted from a massive log that had washed ashore at some point.

Everything is easy, too. Want a kayak or SUP? Just ask and someone will get it for you. There’s nothing to sign, no request to return it at a certain time, no direction about where to leave it when you’re finished. Even getting to the resort is a snap: A resort van picked us up at Placencia’s tiny airport; 10 minutes later we were boarding a boat for the five-minute ride across the inlet to Prana Maya.

And from there? Zero stress. The restaurant serves breakfast until 10 every morning so there’s no rush to get up; hours for lunch and dinner were equally generous. Menus mix Belizean and more familiar dishes. One night, the chef created a multi-course dinner of house-made tortillas topped with chorizo, avocado and queso fresco, followed by local fish topped with a traditional garnet-hued accompaniment made from annatto seeds called recado rojo that added remarkable depth. I had no idea pineapple was grown in Belize; that night, it was transformed into crème brûlée. And to drink? Try head bartender Imer Mai’s creations, which have earned him awards in competitions in South and Central America.

When we weren’t eating or drinking, we were exploring the lagoon or Caribbean on the various water toys that were available, floating in the pool or blissing out at the spa, where treatment oils are infused with copal, a healing oil that is part of Maya culture. Yoga is offered several mornings each week, too.

Getting off the island is as easy as getting on: Five minutes on the boat and you’re strolling through Placencia’s shops, restaurants, galleries and coffee bars. On our food tour with Taste Belize we stopped at several local cafes for handmade tortillas filled with chicken or cheese; fried jack bread; sea moss-infused smoothies; and delightfully tart tamarind juice. You can also pop over for lunch or dinner any time you please. That seamless access to town is a unique feature of Prana Maya and one I appreciated — it’s nice to have another area to explore. The resort can also facilitate guided fishing expeditions, either offshore or on the flats, as well as dive and snorkel trips. Land adventures also abound and include caving, hiking, exploring ancient Maya ruins and zip lining over the jungle.

On our last evening, a local conservation group shared stories about the remarkably diverse population of animals, sea creatures and reptiles — everything from crocodiles and manatees to jaguars — that populate Belize. We also learned that if we really wanted to spot a manatee or a ray, we would need to rise before dawn and hit the water as soon as there was enough light to see. So once again, I was up with the birds and on the water just after the sun peeped over the horizon. They were right: Within 10 minutes, I’d spotted an eagle ray moving gracefully through the water. Around the next bend, I looked down in time to see the massive form of a manatee dozing just a few feet below me.

It was almost enough to turn me into a morning person.