Colorful Comfort

Bright dishes to beat the winter blues

Recipes and Photos by Fanny Slater

An occasional seventy degree day in January isn’t wildly off brand for Wilmington, so I know y’all aren’t begging for hearty, stick-to-your-ribs comfort food to keep you warm this time of year. That in mind, ‘tis still the season for chillier days and dreary, dark-by-five-o’clock evenings. To combat these drab winter blues, I suggest we all look on the bright side—literally. 

This issue, I’m bringing colorful comfort (and a boatload of roasted garlic) to your plate by leaning on radiant ingredients and various forms of spice to shake your taste buds back to life after all that turkey and ham. Think: electric tangerine chicken, butternut squash-tinted mac and cheese, a rich, orangey-red tortilla soup simmering with smoky chilis, and a crimson parsnip and beet puree with coconut milk, rosemary, and ginger. A zippy lime zest and chipotle roasted salmon takes center stage for lunch or dinner, while a 15-minute glossy cardamom-strawberry syrup is glorious over breakfast or dessert. The recipes are all of varying complexity so you can choose your own adventure level. 

Also, one can of chipotle peppers in adobo goes a long way, so I stretched it into two meals. You’re welcome.

The skies may be dull and your toes cold, but this menu will fill your kitchen table with dazzling dishes your family will want to play on repeat all year long.

Creamy Veggie Tortilla Soup

Yield: 6 – 8 servings

• 1 medium sweet onion, roughly chopped
• 1 yellow bell pepper, quartered
• 2 small jalapeno peppers, seeds and ribs removed and halved
• 3 large cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt, divided
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided
• 1 chopped canned chipotle pepper in adobo plus 2 teaspoons of sauce from the can
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
• 1-14 ounce can diced fire roasted tomatoes
• 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 3 cups low sodium vegetable stock
• Juice of 1 lime (plus additional lime wedges for garnish)
• 1/2 cup half-and-half, room temperature
• Garnishes: tortilla strips, sour cream, avocado, fresh cilantro

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the onions, peppers, and garlic with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

3. Roast until the garlic cloves are golden brown, 10-12 minutes, and then remove them from the baking sheet. Toss the remaining veggies and return to the oven. Cook until the peppers and onions are lightly blistered, about 5-8 more minutes. 

4. Slide the garlic cloves out of their skins. Rough chop all of the vegetables.

5. In a medium-sized saucepot over medium heat, add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Add the chopped roasted onions, peppers, garlic, chipotle pepper and adobo sauce and season with the oregano, chili powder, and cumin. Pour in the apple cider vinegar, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom. Stir in the fire roasted tomatoes, sugar, and vegetable stock.

6. Bring the soup to a boil, and then reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer on low heat for 1 hour. Transfer about 3/4 of the soup to a blender and puree, or puree with a handheld immersion blender until it’s smooth but still has some texture. Whisk in the lime juice and half and half and season to taste with additional salt.

7. Divide the soup among bowls and garnish with your choice of toppings.

Parsnip, Beet & Coconut Milk Puree

Yield: 6 – 8 servings as a side

• 1/4 cup unsalted butter
• 4 large cloves garlic, tips sliced 
• 1-inch-thick round fresh ginger, peeled and smashed but still intact
• 1-pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks of the same thickness
• 2 small red beets, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks (about 6 ounces)
• 3 sprigs fresh rosemary
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk (plus more for garnish if desired)
• 1 teaspoon honey

1. In a medium saucepot over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the garlic cloves and ginger and cook, turning every few minutes, until the garlic and ginger are golden-brown on all sides. Using a slotted spoon, remove the garlic and ginger and set aside to cool. Reserve the butter.

2. Once cooled, remove the skins from the garlic by pushing the cloves out of the sliced tips. Mash the cloves with the flat side of a large knife.

3. In a large pot, cover the parsnips, beets, and rosemary sprigs with cold salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium, and then simmer until the parsnips and beets are very tender and a knife slides right through their centers, about 15-20 minutes. 

4. Reserve the colorful starchy cooking water and transfer the beets and parsnips to a food processor.

5. Add the salt, pepper, roasted garlic and ginger, coconut milk, and honey and pulse until the veggies are broken down. Pulsing as you pour, add in a few tablespoons at a time of the reserved cooking water until the purée is velvety and whipped. 

6. With the motor still running, stream in the reserved butter, and then season to taste with additional salt and pepper if necessary. Divide the puree among plates and serve.

Bacon Butternut Mac and Cheese

Yield: 6 servings

• 1 pound (16 ounces) cavatappi pasta
• 1 whole head garlic, tips sliced off 
• 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 1 butternut squash, about 2 pounds
• 1 1/2 cups half and half 
• 6 ounces bacon, diced in 1/4-inch cubes
• 1/2 cup chopped shallots
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 2 1/2 cups (about 10 ounces) shredded mild cheddar cheese
• 1 teaspoon ground mustard
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
• 1 cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley, for garnish

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the cavatappi, stirring occasionally, until al dente according to package directions, about 9-11 minutes. Drain the pasta and toss with 1 tablespoon oil to prevent sticking. Reserve the pot for the sauce.

2. To make the sauce: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the garlic in a small baking dish, drizzle the exposed cloves with 1 tablespoon oil, and cover with foil. Bake the garlic until the cloves are golden brown and tender, about 40-50 minutes. Once cooled, squeeze the cloves from their skins and add them to a food processor.

3. Slice the squash in half lengthwise. Using a spoon, scrape out the seeds and inner membrane. Rub the flesh with the remaining 1 tablespoon oil, then place the squash halves cut-side down on a baking sheet lined with tin foil. Bake until knife-tender, about 50-60 minutes. Cool, then scoop out the flesh and add it to the food processor with the roasted garlic. Puree, dripping in 1 tablespoon of water at a time if the mixture is too thick, until smooth and velvety. 

4. Add the butternut squash puree and the half and half to the pot where you cooked the pasta and place over medium-low heat. Whisk to combine. Stir in the ground mustard, cayenne, salt, and pepper. 

5. Fold in the cheese about 1/2 cup at a time, stirring between additions to combine thoroughly and ensure that it melts. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper if necessary. Keep the sauce over low heat, stirring occasionally.

6. Increase the oven’s heat to 400°F and spray a 9-by-x13-inch baking or 3-quart casserole dish with non-stick cooking spray.

7. Place a skillet on the stove over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until crispy and golden-brown. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked bacon to a paper-towel lined plate to drain. Transfer 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat to the breadcrumbs and stir to combine.

8. Add the shallots to the remaining bacon fat left in the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and lightly caramelized, 8-10 minutes.

9. To assemble the mac and cheese: Combine the cooked pasta, shallots, and half of the bacon with the sauce, and stir until well-coated. Season to taste for salt and pepper and then transfer the pasta to the prepared baking dish. 

10. Top with the breadcrumbs and remaining bacon. Bake until golden-brown, about 20-25 minutes. Rest the mac and cheese for 5 minutes to allow everything to set, garnish with the parsley, and serve.

Tangerine Chili Chicken

Yield: 4 servings

• 5 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce, divided
• 2 tablespoons tangerine zest, divided
• 1 1/4 cups strained tangerine juice, divided
• 1 small bunch green onions, white and green parts chopped, divided
• 2 tablespoons fresh grated ginger, divided
• 4 large cloves garlic, grated, divided
• 1 1/2 pounds chicken breast, cut into 1-inch pieces 
• Pinch coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/3 cup low-sodium chicken stock
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 2 1/2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup cornstarch
• 1/4 – 1/3 cup vegetable oil 
• 2-3 Thai chilies, de-seeded for less heat and thinly sliced (or 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes)
• Garnish: tangerine wheels and toasted sesame seeds

1. In a large bowl, mix 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1/2 tablespoon tangerine zest, 1/4 cup tangerine juice, half of the chopped green onions, 1 tablespoon ginger, and 2 cloves of the grated garlic. Add the chicken pieces, a pinch of salt and pepper, and toss until thoroughly coated in the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

2. Make the orange sauce. In a small mixing bowl, whisk the remaining soy sauce, tangerine zest, chicken stock, tangerine juice, rice vinegar, and brown sugar.

3. Place the cornstarch in a large bowl. Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade, dredge them in the cornstarch, and shake to remove any excess.

4. In a heavy-bottomed saucepot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Working in batches and adding more oil if necessary, cook the chicken until golden brown on all sides, about 3-5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the chicken pieces from the pan and set them aside on a paper towel-lined plate. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

5. Add the remaining ginger, garlic, and the chilies to the oil and sauté until very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Pour in the orange sauce, scraping to remove any brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Bring the sauce to a boil, reduce the heat to simmer, and cook for 5 minutes until thickened, reduced, and syrupy. Return the chicken to the pan and toss to coat. Stirring occasionally, continue to cook until the chicken is fully warmed back through, 2-3 minutes.

6. Transfer the chicken to a platter and garnish with the remaining green onions, tangerine wheels, and toasted sesame seeds. Serve over steamed white or brown rice.

Chipotle Lime Salmon

Yield: 4 servings

• 2 limes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 canned chipotle pepper in adobo plus 1 teaspoon of sauce from the can
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 4 6-ounce skin-on salmon fillets
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, divided (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Zest and juice one lime and slice the other into wedges and set aside.

3. In a small food processor or high-speed blender, add the olive oil, chipotle pepper and adobo sauce, honey, lime juice, and lime zest. Pulse until the pepper is broken down and then blend the sauce until smooth. Set aside.

4. Pat the salmon dry and season both sides with the salt. Place the fillets skin-side down on the prepared baking sheet. Spoon about half of the chipotle-lime sauce onto the fillets. Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until the flesh easily flakes with a fork. 

5. Stir 1 tablespoon of the cilantro into the remaining sauce. Using a clean basting brush, brush the top of the fillets. 

6. Divide the salmon among plates and garnish with the remaining 1/2 tablespoon cilantro. Serve with the lime wedges and steamed white or brown rice.

Cardamom-Strawberry Syrup

Yield: 1 cup

• 1-pound fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced (about 3 cups)
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/2 to 1 cup granulated sugar
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

1. Mash the strawberries and water, or combine in a food processor or blender, until the berries are broken down.

2. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add the mashed strawberries and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally and skimming any foam off the top of the mixture, until the strawberries are soft and mostly liquified, about 5 minutes.

3. Using a fine mesh sieve or colander, strain the strawberries into a small bowl to separate the liquid from the pulp. Gently press the strawberries into the strainer with a rubber spatula to extract as much juice as possible.

4. Rinse the saucepan and then return the strawberry juice to the pan over medium heat. Whisk in an equal amount of sugar and bring the syrup to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to top, until the syrup has slightly thickened, but is still runny, about 1 minute. Stir in the cardamom.

5. Transfer the finished syrup to a serving bowl and serve warm over ice cream, waffles, and breads. Refrigerate the syrup in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks. Serve chilled over ice cream, gelato, crackers and cheese, and yogurt parfaits.