Local Market, Family Recipe

For many Wilmingtonians, Los Portales Supermarket is more than a grocery store. It’s where shoppers can pick up cuts of meat for a cookout or locate spices and other ingredients for Hispanic recipes, whether they are trying something new or reconnecting with flavors from home. Over the past 23 years, the family-owned business has expanded from one modest location into three thriving supermarkets across the Port City, a reflection of both the city’s changing population and the owners’ commitment to authenticity.

“I think we play a cultural part and unite a lot of countries in one store,” Ramon Villasenor says. “We showcase things that many people here are not used to or familiar with, and that stands apart from regular grocery stores.”

Villasenor and his brothers – Fernando and Miguel Angel – opened the first Los Portales Supermarket in 2003. They started small in the University Square shopping center but eventually moved to the current standalone 912 S. Kerr Ave. location. During the years that followed, their family businesses have grown to include taquerias and restaurants, but the demand for more supermarkets was also there. 

The Villasenors answered that call by opening two more supermarkets during the past year. Last July, they began welcoming customers at 2307 N. College Road, and the 9 Sunnyvale Drive location off Carolina Beach Road – built from the ground up – opened in February. 

“We’ve been growing,” Villasenor says. “We grow because we listen to our customers and what they need, and we bring it to them.”

In addition to fresh produce and aisles of Mexican, Central American and South American grocery items, each store has a butcher shop, a bakery and a chef that whips up prepared items for those who don’t want to cook or tips for those who do.

“We offer foods more like grandma used to make back home,” Villasenor says. “It depends on what the chef is wanting to do that day, but popular items are carnitas, barbacoa and tamales.”

A chef is also available to steer home cooks in the right direction, especially when it comes to the butcher shop’s cuts of meat that may be considered unusual to some.

“Customers see pork heads, pork feet, intestines, beef tongue, pork tongue and pork ears,” Villasenor says. “At the beginning they may be scared to try it, but we tell them what to do with it, like using pork head to make pozole.”

If you’re not quite that adventurous and prefer to stick to the classics, Villasenor shared his idea of a simple but delicious meal that you will find people in Mexico enjoying on any given weekend: Carne Asada al Carbon with various sides to complete the feast. He suggests starting with chuck roll meat seasoned with just salt and lime and cooked over a charcoal grill, although he reluctantly concedes that gas will do the job if necessary. As the meat cooks, Villasenor says that’s a great time to prepare a salad of cabbage, jalapeno, cilantro, onion, habanero, lime, white vinegar, paprika, salt and pepper. Other traditional accompaniments include refried pinto beans and Mexican rice, which can be picked up from the prepared foods section of Los Portales Supermarket, along with onion chives to be grilled alongside the meat, he says. However, homemade salsa is a must, Villasenor adds, so he has offered one of his favorite recipes: Salsa al Molcajete. A molcajete is a traditional Mexican mortar and pestle used for crushing and grinding ingredients, which can also be found at Los Portales.

“Most everybody in Mexico makes their own salsa with their own recipe that makes it different,” Villasenor says. “In Mexico, if you buy jarred salsa, that means you’re not Mexican.”

He says a blender will work in a pinch, but you will taste more ingredients and get better and fresher flavors from a molcajete.

Carne Asada is something you will frequently see people eating in Mexico for any occasion or no occasion at all, Villasenor says. 

“If you’re happy: Carne Asada. Get divorced: Carne Asada. Get married: Carne Asada. If your team wins: Carne Asada. If your team loses: Carne Asada,” he says. “There’s any reason to do Carne Asada anywhere.”

Mexican food does not have to be spicy and extends well beyond the standard burritos, chimichangas and enchiladas that many people know, Villasenor says. He encourages people to give it a chance.

“Come and explore the supermarkets and see what we have in there,” he says. “You’d be surprised what we have inside the markets.”

Salsa al Molcajete

This rustic salsa gets its smoky flavor from charred tomatillos and a traditional molcajete preparation. Adjust the number of chiles de árbol to suit your preferred heat level. (Makes: About 2 cups)

Ingredients

8 ounces tomatillos, husked and rinsed

3 fresh garlic cloves

5 chiles de árbol, toasted (or more or less to taste)

Sea salt, to taste

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons finely diced white onion

Splash of your favorite beer (about 2-3 tablespoons)

Directions

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat. Place the tomatillos on the grill and cook, turning occasionally, until they are charred on the outside and softened, about 8-10 minutes.

While the tomatillos are grilling, place the garlic cloves in a molcajete and mash into a paste. Add the toasted chiles de árbol and a pinch of sea salt, grinding until
well combined.

When the tomatillos are ready, add them to the molcajete one at a time, mashing each into the mixture before adding the next.

Stir in a splash of beer, cilantro and onion. Taste and adjust the seasoning with additional sea salt if needed.

Serve immediately.